What Happened To Y/Project?
The brand is closing after 14 years following the exit of creative director Glenn Martens.
Words by Foli Creppy | 2 Minute Read
Y/Project, founded by Yohan Serfaty in 2010, gained acclaim for its gender-inclusive menswear before ceasing operations last year due to financial instability and leadership changes. As a tribute to co-founder Gilles Elalouf, the brand will donate archival pieces to major institutions, leaving a lasting legacy for future designers.
Y/Project, the brainchild of Yohan Serfaty, burst onto the menswear scene in 2010 with a mission to redefine the very concept of masculine style. Serfaty's vision was clear: timeless pieces imbued with an edgy, gender-inclusive aesthetic, a stark contrast to the ephemeral trends dominating the industry. His style, often described as gothic and moody, became the DNA of Y/Project's early designs.
The brand quickly garnered a dedicated following, particularly in Japan, where its distinct aesthetic resonated with fashion-forward consumers. This early success laid a solid foundation for future growth. Tragically, Serfaty's untimely passing in 2013, just three years after Y/Project's inception, left a void in the brand's creative heart.
But from this loss emerged a new chapter. Glenn Martens, who had been by Serfaty's side since the beginning as his first assistant, stepped into the role of creative director. Martens didn't just fill shoes; he reinvented them. He became synonymous with Y/Project's signature trompe l’oeil designs, dramatic silhouettes (who could forget those iconic thigh-high scrunched boots?), and impactful collaborations. His visionary leadership propelled Y/Project to the forefront of fashion, earning the brand critical acclaim, prestigious nominations like the ANDAM Grand Prize (2017) and the LVMH Prize (2016), and global notoriety through celebrity endorsements from Rihanna and Charli XCX.
Despite this remarkable success, the Paris-based fashion house officially ceased operations last year. The closure comes after the brand's inability to secure a buyer following Glenn Martens' departure and the passing of co-founder Gilles Elalouf. Placed into receivership by a Parisian commercial court after Elalouf's death, Y/Project attracted interest from potential suitors, including a reported bid from Hong Kong-based AA Investments. With 24 employees and just under €11 million in revenue in 2023, the brand held promise. Yet, even with Martens' dual role as creative director of Diesel, the leadership and financial instability surrounding Y/Project likely deterred potential investors. Ultimately, offers were deemed too low to cover the brand's debts.
In a poignant tribute to co-founder Gilles Elalouf, Y/Project will donate archival pieces to prestigious institutions like the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Palais Galliera. Even in its final moments, Y/Project’s influence was palpable, with recent Paris clearance sales drawing devoted crowds. With the closure of its e-commerce site, an era has come to an end. But Y/Project's innovative spirit, its deconstructed dream, will undoubtedly continue to inspire generations of designers to come.
Foli Creppy
Style Editor, Frasspot
Foli Creppy is the style editor for Frasspot. He oversees fashion and lifestyle content across Frasspot and has contributed as a style editor since December 2022.
Feb 20, 2025
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