Conversations: Grounded New York
Tristan Ford of Grounded New York discusses early inspirations, friends, and connections, growing up in Staten Island, and Grounded New York's ReStoreProgram.
Words by Foli Creppy
GROUNDED NEW YORK
Grounded New York announced the reimagining of three of its signature designs for their new #ReStoreProgram. Since the brand's inception in the Spring/Summer of 2018, Grounded New York has released a capsule collection for Fall/Winter 2018 and continues to release designs on a "drop" basis. After a two-year hiatus, Co-Founder & Designer Tristan Ford and Foli Creppy discuss inspirations, connections, and Grounded's #ReStoreProgram.
Who are the members of Grounded New York, and how did you guys meet to form Grounded New York?
TF: So, right now the members are me, my boy Luke Marseille, and Gerren Willis; met them at J.Crew, and funny enough, I met a lot of my friends that I have now from J.Crew, which is crazy. But yeah, we connected from conversations about fashion, style, etc. I realize that we had similar sensibility and such, and I knew that I always wanted to take it from, me just like randomly printing tees or coming up with some weird idea to something a little more structured. I approached them and let them know my vision and what I wanted to do, I asked if they were in, and they were – the rest was history; here we are.
I think Luke was the one who came by my place when you were doing the photoshoot?
TF: Oh no, that's my boy, Jorge Rivera; again to kind of backtrack with Grounded New York – it originally started as a collective of friends in Staten Island, that I was just a part of, then it branched into clothing. Jorge, I've known him since second or third grade; I'm just blessed that he's an amazing photographer, so you know he's definitely part of the team as well.
Gotcha, wait I think I did meet Luke once. I don't remember if it was a get-together or a party, but I think we met in passing. I don't remember us having much conversation but I do think I met him once.
TF: Yeah, most likely it was through Taj, so if Taj was at a function as you were there too, then Luke might have been there too
Grounded New York x Ebbets Vintage - NY Vanguard Ball Cap
GROUNDED NEW YORK
Okay yes, it's coming back to me, in fact, Taji was there (laughing). How much did growing up in Staten Island influence Grouned New York? I know you touched on – starting off as a collective amongst individuals who were close to one another and who lived on Staten Island?
TF: Honestly, without Staten Island and the upbringing on Staten Island, Grounded New York wouldn't exist, at least in this form. So yeah, I think a big thing too for us from Staten Island, that is creative and dabble in things that are more exposed in another borough, we kinda have a chip on our shoulder in that regard. We know our stuff is just – as cool as every other borough's creative circle. Since we are the "forgotten" borough, Staten Island fashion brands get lost in the overall scoop of New York fashion brands. That chip-on-the-shoulder mentality and meeting that creative collective in Staten Island influenced the brand a lot.
I don't know if you know this or not but in the inception of the collective, meaning the original members, was it because you all lived on Staten Island and you all had a voice; were you trying to make sure that people knew there was talent in Staten Island? Was that first thought amongst the original members or was the collective started for another main reason?
TF: I think, from my perspective, it started because we were all creative in our own right. I felt that as a collective of talent, we would be able to reach more people if we moved as a unit – and it was also cool because we were all talented in different ways. For example, if an artist on the island, had a song coming out, I would design the artwork, Jorge would shoot the photos, and my other homie James would make a beat, James he's a great producer. So it was kind of a collaborative thing, you know; we moved as a unit, and we were friends our whole life – but we also had, what I like to call the "stimulus package" like a one-stop-shop to brand yourself.
I like the mentality that you guys had, now that I'm hearing this, especially with the collective being a one-stop-shop, where anything you wanted to be done creatively, you don't have to go anywhere. You all knew somebody within the collective that did something. If you needed a photoshoot, you had this person. If you need graphic design you can go to another person, so all the influence and money stay within the group it doesn't really escape the group. Everyone saw a profit from it I would assume, not only monetary, but also to get your name out there. As opposed to doing it on your own.
TF: Exactly. Straight up. I've learned, especially through this whole process to where we are now, that there is power in collaboration too, whether it is someone you are super close with or someone you see as conduct to something else – there is this book that one of Kanye's boy wrote with him and it had quotes – there was something about "get used to being used" it was like taking that context of using someone and making it kind of positive, were it's okay because we all have something to bring to the table, so that's how I felt when collaborating with friends. As you said, there's only so much you can do on your own, so yeah there is definitely power in collaboration.
Riffing back to the book you just mentioned that Kanye wrote with his friend, one phrase to remember is, "If you are not useful, you’re useless." For context, in my early twenties, I had an issue with the idea of being used – as I matured, I said no – that is exactly what you want, not in the sense of leeching, cause there is a big difference between leeching and collaborating with someone. If you don't have a talent, you can be the bridge or connection between two individuals who can work together to eventually build something successful. It is important to surround yourself with like-minded individuals.
Spring/Summer ‘21, Entitled Tarantino Collection
GROUNDED NEW YORK
TF: Exactly. That goes back to the formation of Grounded. "Iron sharpens iron." Stay around creative people, stay around people who inspire you, and you'll only get better.
Right. So what were some of the biggest motivators for you, starting a clothing brand?
TF: I think one of my biggest motivators was my love for style and clothing, transitioning too, seeing if I can dissect how or why I get a certain feeling from a piece of clothing. I wanted to chase that feeling but, with something I created. That was one of my biggest motivators, in addition to a way to exercise creativity. So yeah, originally I wanted to use the brand as a way to make stuff, just for the hell of it, and the fact that I was into fashion kinda just happened, it made sense at that point you know?
So for you, it was purely a creative pursuit. It was an outlet for you to create. You have all these ideas but you also like fashion, let's put two and two together and pour energy into the medium of fashion, as opposed to putting effort into photography or another creative medium.
TF: Exactly, I'm super into all facets of creativity for sure, but I'm most at home in that clothing realm, regarding creativity.
Gotcha. When was the moment you or the members of Grounded New York had the "this could be a real thing moment" with the clothing brand?
TF: So originally when we first came up with the brand, one of the members from our collective, Arjuna who’s an amazing artist - we were the ones who were building the clothing aspect of this collective. I wanted to take it to the next level, so I went to him and told him whatever, whatever, and then we were kind of shooting ideas – then he told me "You gotta do your thing, you have to that this." So hearing that, and at the time he's an artist in his own right he has his own thing going on. I think he saw how passionate I was about it and realized "Yeah you have to helm this, we don't know where yet but you have to take it."
Hearing that at the time, I figure damn let me try to take this seriously and make this happen. Even if it's the worst and cheapest shirt or screen print, at least let me take that step. Definitely, that moment was a big one and then honestly, meeting Gerren and Luke at J.Crew, subconsciously the wheels turning in my head, made it feel like that real thing moment, this could be more than me on my computer making randomness, this could be something sustainable – those were the two moments for sure.
What are your thoughts on the current state of fashion and what do you feel sets you apart from your contemporaries within the fashion space?
TF: Oof, I feel like it's a love or hate thing nowadays, I would say, because a lot of the fundamentals are still there, and the things that make people like you or myself, that love clothing or love style –those assets are still there. So, there will always be something to grasp or take a liking to.
I think the way social media influences fashion and style is not my favorite thing because it makes trendhoppers even more prevalent and I'm big on finding your own style or maybe taking from a trend here and there, maybe adding it to your own sauce, but overall you should always have your own sauce. That is the one thing I really don't like but you know it... comes with the times. As far as separating ourselves apart from our contemporaries, I feel like one thing with streetwear, big brands may take themself too seriously and with our brand, we take a satirical approach at times and flip idea to bring a little humor, this is important because you don't really see that too much especially in the streetwear realm.
G & Blade Lapel Pins
GROUNDED NEW YORK
One thing I've been thinking about recently and I don't know if this only applies to social media regarding fashion is that people enter the fashion sector on social media because they see it as an easy way to get a following or to become famous. It is like they are creating video content pretending to be fashionable when in reality, their goal is to maybe gain popularity. There is nothing wrong with this if that is your end goal and you're working hard towards it, but to someone like me, it's a bit gimmicky.
TF: Going back to learning about the brand that you are consuming, the kind of knowledge of the product and ethos of the brand only makes me want to buy in even more. What a lot of people don't understand is if you do research about a brand, it would only make you appreciate things even more.
Agree. With that being said, where do you or the Grounded Team see the Grounded New York brand within the next 5 to 10 years times?
TF: Umm wow, I would say definitely putting out consistent collections and then 10 years (deep exhale) A brick and mortar, by having a retail space you can bring people into the ethos. That's definitely on the list for a long-term goal. Especially in New York City, that's a hard thing to do and maintain, but that would be amazing one day. Also, exploring the wholesale side of business. That's another big step for a brand too and at the moment we're on the cusps of making that happen.So yeah, brick-and-mortar and stocklist placement other than our own brick-and-mortar.
To continue that point, I feel that many brands have taken the online route and stayed on the online route because it is more cost-effective to do that. At the same time, you lose out on the experiential aspect of walking into a store, feeling fabric and really taking in the world of that particular brand. It's something I think a lot of brands are missing, but I do understand why many brands do not take the brick-and-mortar route being from New York City where rent can be very expensive.
TF: Exactly.
So you recently launched the ReStoreProgram, what was the main inspiration behind the program?
TF: The main inspiration I would say was, the tug-of-war we all had with the idea of restocking things because I see a lot of brands, in the streetwear realm at least, like to play that "If you do not get it now its gone forever kind of thing", which is a big part of damn there, every streetwear brand.We always had that idea of, we're gonna drop something, put it out in the world, and whoever gets it, gets it - whoever doesn't sorry. But then, we kinda of backtracked and did it in a way where we could scratch that creative itch, that's why we called it ReStoreProgram, instead of the typical "hey we're restocking things". Giving us the chance to recreate a more focused version of past designs.
We always had that idea of, we're gonna drop something, put it out in the world, and whoever gets it, gets it - whoever doesn't sorry. But then, we kinda of backtracked and did it in a way where we could scratch that creative itch, that's why we called it ReStoreProgram, instead of the typical "hey we're restocking things". Giving us the chance to recreate a more focused version of past designs.
Grounded New York ReStoreProgram
GROUNDED NEW YORK
Got it. It's always nice to know that there are brands out there like yours, willing to restock items, maybe not everything from the collection, but at least the popular items.
TF: Yeah, definitely, also finding that happy medium between restocking something and putting something new out – for example, the Jesus Piece Hoodie we just released with our ReStoreProgram, the first iteration of this design was printed on a T-shirt, featuring the icon yellow gold Jesus pendant offered in both black and cream – with the second iteration, we retained the original design, added our ReStoreProgram logo on the back, and now you can purchase one of our popular items from a design perspective, we were able to restock something but give our customers something new as well.
I love that, finding that balance between not letting customers get too comfortable, where now they may not purchase something when it is released because they know if they missed the chance to purchase an item, you are going to restock anyways – versus if a customer misses out on an item, it's ok – maybe a different iteration of the same design will release again within the ReStoreProgram.
TF: Exactly.
Are there any non-music or fashion-related inspirations that influence Grounded New York?
TF: I would have to say the film industry is an example of where we get inspiration that might influence some of our designs, an example is our execution of the Tarantino collection – most of the inspiration for that collection came from our love for Quentin Tarantino's films Kill Bill: Volume 1 and Reservoir Dogs - In addition designing overall, like furniture designers Charles and Ray Eames influences our brand, I mean just going onto Herman Miller website and seeing Charles and Ray Eames designs can spark something in any creative, so yeah general design and film.
Oh wow, I would have never guessed furniture design as an inspiration for you guys. From a design perspective, Charles and Ray Eames products, not only act as functional furniture but also as art pieces within a home or someplace where they can be appreciated as such. Although quite expensive (laughing).
TF: Yeah, Literally, I recently purchased a Hang-it-all, which is a coat rack – originally designed for kids by Charles and Ray Eames, very useful for hanging everyday items, and at a price point that is easy to enter into Charles and Ray Eames products – versus purchasing a $7,000 chair.
For my last question, Hip-hop influences fashion and vice versa, who were some of the hip-hop artists that may have influenced your style?
TF: I would always tell people that it may have changed now but when I was formulating my own style it was Kanye West (YE), Pharrell Williams, and Kid Cudi – those three were my reactive and style brain in one.
That's quite a combination, honesty.
TF: Right and it's funny because they kinda influence each other.
Especially in the context of fashion, all of the mentioned artists were known for their fashion style outside of hip-hop and have been received well by the fashion industry. It's been a pleasure talking to you brother and I wish you and the Grounded New York team the best in your fashion endeavor.
TF: Appreciate it, good talking to you brother. Peace.
Check out Grounded New York Online Shop and follow the brand on social media. Stay tuned for more details on upcoming releases and updates.
Foli Creppy is a contributor to our lifestyle column in New York. More about Foli Creppy
May 03, 2024 – Updated May 09, 2024More in Journal
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